Saturday, June 30, 2012

Road Warriors

I can't tell you how much I was looking forward to this day.  Cycling in the Cotswolds.  Even if you don't know anything about southwest England, you have to admit that just sounds good.  The Cotswolds are a small area of green rolling hills dotted with little medieval villages lined with tiny stone houses and churches.  This area of England was the producer of the best wool in Europe during medieval and renaissance times, making it quite wealthy.  But it fell into economic depression in the Industrial Revolution as cotton took over as the new fabric of the masses.  So the villages have remained unchanged and are here for us to enjoy today. 
Our awesome driver Steve drove us from Stratford Upon Avon (where we are staying) to Bourton on the Water to pick up our bikes.  After we all found a bicycle from the mishmash of old bikes at Hartwell's Cycle Hire, we headed out toward the village of Winchcombe where Sudeley Castle is located.  According to David at Hartwell's, it would be a pleasant country ride of about 10 miles that should take us about 1 1/2 hours.  Now, not everyone is an avid cyclist in the group, and he was aware of that, but he was wrong on the time.  The first group to arrive took just under two hours (with several stops to wait to make sure the second group knew where to turn).  The last group took three hours... But what is time anyway?  An illusion - we only live in the present moment, right?  And I can't think of a better way to spend the present moment than going up and down the hills of the Cotswolds, turning corners into sudden little villages with names like Guiting Power and Naunton, and spending time with these wonderful people.  It was wonderful!

We also had a treat waiting for us at Sudeley Castle - our first real English Cream Tea.  With excellent scones, clotted cream and jam, and of course tea with milk and sugar, we celebrated our long ride, and we also celebrated the birthdays of Nico (18) and Sophie (17) - both born on June 30!  We got them cake, but they shared because they were so full of scones by that time. 
Afterwards we explored the small part of the castle open to the public - the rest of it is actually lived in by the owners, Lord and Lady Ashcombe, who were having a birthday party for one of their grandchildren today.  So three birthdays today! 


The Mousetrap Inn in Bourton on the Water.  One of the characteristic B&B's of the Cotswolds that would be nice to stay in (if you didn't have 20 kids with you).

One of the crossroads on the ride - we would always stop and make sure the group behind knew which way to turn.

Why I loved this day.

Zach at the crest of one of the hills we climbed today.  He's a very quick cyclist!

These cows rushed towards us when we stopped - they must have thought we had something good..

... but now they seem to backing away for some reason.

Partway down a long, windy and steep hill that led us to Winchcombe which you can see in the distance.

At the front of Sudeley Castle, the house of Henry VIII's last wife (and the only one who outlived him) Katherine Parr.

Nico makes friends easily.  Especially with inanimate objects.

My Henry VIII impression fails on many levels - the ipod headphones, cheap wrist watch, and hiking shoes to begin with.

Lady Christine

Lady Lexi

Henry, not looking to good.

The Dutch king looks like he's been eating at Henry's table.

One of the more recent owners of Sudeley Castle, Lady Dent-Brockelhurst, sculpted in the Greek style.

Lord Ashcombe, current owner of the castle, with his pet badger.  There's actually a whole display about this badger in the museum.  He really, really liked the badger.

The wall of the ruined banquet house.  The castle fell into disrepair for a couple hundred years after Katherine Parr died.

The castle gardens, while not enormous, are an aromatic mix of roses and hedges.

Enjoying the warmth of the day.

Looking down High Street in Winchcombe one way...

.... and the other way.

Another street in Winchcombe. 

The weather was dramatic all day - some sun, some wind, some rain.

Road to Sudeley

Glastonbury rubbed off on Michaela and the girls - I apparently interrupted a meditation session she was leading.  She looks angry?

Fun on the castle green.

No comment.

We cheated and drove back to Bourton on the Water - with all our bikes under and in the bus!

Ancient Stones of England



Green.  Everywhere you look – light, dark, pastel, … green.  The old red, white and blue (the old one, not the American one) may be the colours of the United Kingdom, but in this part of England, green is everywhere.  As I write this, driving through the Salisbury Plain, I realized that with a grey sky, the only colour visible for miles around is green – from the fields to the hedges to the forests.

We left Bath this morning with stones on our minds.  Stonehenge, surely an icon of the British Isles, awaited our pilgrimage, as it has for countless human beings for 5000 years.  Though we don’t really know what the purpose of building this monolithic structure was, we do know that if functions as an accurate celestial time piece – somewhat like a sundial, but for the solstices and seasons rather than the hours of the day.  An enormous amount of ingenuity and effort was needed for these ancient people to move these stones up to 240 miles to this spot in the Salisbury Plain.  Theories abound about how they did it, but you can ask our bus driver Steve – he knows it was only with the assistance of aliens that they uprighted these 25 ton stoners and then placed capstones on top of them.  Or, they built earthen ramps (digging the necessay dirt using deer shoulder blades in the absence of metal tools) and placed logs on them to make a sort of conveyer belt and dragged the stones up, dropping them into the holes that had been dug to hold them in place.  I think the weather was perfect for our visit here – chilly wind and a bit of rain.  These stones have withstood thousands of years of all sorts of weather – we can handle an hour in the elements.  Especially if wearing tweed.

After Stonehenge, we were off to the largest stone circle in the British Isles in nearby Avebury.  Sixteen times larger than Stonehenge in circumference, the Avebury stone circles actually have a village in the middle of them!  I brought the students to the first stone we saw and invited them to touch it.  You can’t do that at Stonehenge – it is roped off.  But at Avebury, the stones are in open fields and you can walk amongst them as you please.  I like to touch the stonework in the cathedrals we visit – and imagine my ancestors working those same stones, quarrying, chiseling, and setting them in place.  The stones at Avebury were set in place by our ancestors before written history – human ingenuity, human hands working to create something sacred, something that will last beyond their short mortal tenure.  These stones are evidence of people at the dawn of civilization, when humans moved beyond nomadic hunting and gathering to an agrarian lifestyle that actually gave them some leisure time – and time to build monuments to whatever they saw as sacred – like their descendants – the cathedral builders of the middle ages. 

We enjoyed an excellent pub meal at Avebury’s only pub, the Red Lion, followed by a walk amongst the stones.  Another wonderful day living in the present moment while contemplating the past.

Ray dares to sit in the Devil's chair in the Avebury stone circle!!!! 

I too take my seat.

Andrew - the Inn Keeper at the Avebury Lodge - a friendly, mysterious man....

The Avebury Lodge - where my family stayed two years ago.

Jonathan - manager of the Red Lion Pub in Avebury.  I've eaten lunch or dinner here every year for three years now. 

The Red Lion Pub - the only one in town!  And, the most haunted in Britain.

The Devil's Chair.  In the Middle Ages, the Christians of the area believed that these stones were erected by the devil.  So they tried to pull them down.  But that resulted in a stone crushing one of the villagers to death, so they quit.  Thankfully.


No children!!  The bar in the Red Lion.

Tim enjoys Bangers and Mash.

A lovely setting for lunch.

The graduated girls think they can go in The Bar.

In the little village of Avebury - beside the Henge Shop.  Kids, I got you something...

Jordan checks out the menu before he goes to the bar to order.

Hey, no children in the bar!

Coca cola or lemonade.  That's it boys.

The Henge Shop.

The Avebury Henge.  A henge is a man-made hill and ditch - this one is quite large.  On the left, you can see the stones (they look quite small here).

One of the chalk horses on the hillsides near Avebury.

"Stonehenge, 'tis a magic place
Where the moon doth rise with a dragon's face" - Spinal Tap
   

Ginny take a photo of Maddy in the winds of Stonehenge.

Imagine how many people have gazed upon these rocks...

The audio guides here were excellent.




Tweed was the best option for the chilly winds and rain of the Salisbury Plain.